The cichlid family in your aquarium

ORIGIN:

Cichlids (Cichlidae) are a family of fish in the order Cichliformes of the class bony fish.

They are a family of great evolutionary success, mostly freshwater, and are very attractive to aquarium enthusiasts as they are one of the most requested fish by experts in this practice.

Every year numerous new species are found and many not yet described. The actual number of species in this family is unclear, due to estimates ranging from 1,300 to 3,000 species, which possess a great diversity of forms and unique characteristics, which make this one of the largest families of vertebrates. Most species in this family have an average lifespan of 10 to 20 years.

Many cichlids, particularly tilapia, are important in the food trade, while others, such as angels, discus, and oscars, are highly valued in the aquarium trade.

This family is also the vertebrate family with the most endangered species, many of which are in the Haplochromis group.

Cichlids, apart from being very important for trade and economy, are also important for the study of the evolution of species in science, because a large number of closely related species have evolved very quickly, but with very diverse morphological characteristics within them. of the great lakes of Africa (Malawi, Tanganyika, Victoria and Eduardo).

Many cichlids that have been accidentally or deliberately released into waters outside their natural range have become nuisance species; for example, tilapia in the southern United States. This is due to its great adaptation to almost any ecosystem, and its territoriality. This causes the cichlids to eat, annoy or starve the other inhabitants; therefore, the ecosystem is altered, which is very harmful.

INDEX:

1.- BEHAVIOR.

2.- CHARACTERISTICS.

3.- CLASSIFICATION.

4.- NUTRITION.

5.- REPRODUCTION.

6.- CARE.

7.- HEALTH.

1.- BEHAVIOR:

The vast majority of cichlid fish species are considered territorial and aggressive. In general, these can attack other varied species and even others of their family (Cichlidae). In addition, between males of the same species they do not usually settle in a herd, being able to reject each other.

Their aggressiveness also lies in their reproductive realities. Males are overprotective of their mates' eggs in contrast to other fish. Some live with the same reproductive partner for life. Others, on the other hand, establish themselves in colonies of several pairs to maintain a reproductive dynamism.

Cichlid pairs must be contemporaneous in longevity so that breeding is not problematic. If the female is too young or too old to ovulate, the two fish will be in conflict. Being rejected, the male could attack the female, understanding her as an enemy within his territory.

Cichlid fish are not recommended for all types of aquariums. To tell the truth, these live together in large environments with enough space between copies. In this way, each cichlid will be able to establish its usual territory or during the reproductive cycle. This avoids a problematic environment for all species in the aquarium.

It is recommended to place this fish in aquariums that have good depth and caves. In general, they are fish that tend to settle in these formations and establish their own space. Ideally, there should be a segment for each instance of this type that you want to add to the artificial environment.

Otherwise, these freshwater fish will easily adapt to the rest of the conditions of these ecosystems. Unfortunately, 156 of its species are considered "vulnerable" and 40 are on the verge of extinction. Since 2007, the International Union for Conservation of Nature has focused on its protection. Its main predator is considered to be man.

This species of fish presents compatibility problems, however, it is determined by the needs, behavior and space where it lives. South American cichlids are compatible with neons, tetras, loaches, danios and more.

The smaller cichlids proceed positively being in the company of small catfish, rainbow fish, among others, in turn, Africans can live with fish such as loaches, barbels or tetras.

African cichlids often have a reputation for being difficult fish to keep. A fame that, to a large extent, is due to one of the main traits of their character: they are highly territorial tropical fish (even more so in captivity), so it is important to consider this aspect when including them in our aquarium.

It is clear that we will not be able to influence the character of these fish, but we can mitigate their strong personality in a very simple way: ensuring that our aquarium has a good number of specimens that do not belong to this family of fish. In this way, we will be favoring that the African cichlids do not find each other.

Understanding the habits of African cichlids is key to being able to consider whether or not we can have them in our aquarium. These tropical fish are lovers of the bottom of the aquarium and need to have a shelter to hide. For this reason, it is important that we include in their ecosystem stones (specific for aquariums, and that we will place to form caves) and decorative trunks in which they can take shelter. These spaces will also be their territory, so it is not advisable to make changes in the composition of the aquarium to avoid destabilizing the space of each of the fish.

The behavior of the cichlids, for the most part, makes some aquarists lose interest in keeping them, due to the aggressiveness that manifests between them. Such aggressiveness is more accentuated when it comes to specimens of the same species and different sexes.
The limits of their territories are established based on fights and retreats. When two rivals meet, they must choose to fight or flight. The fights are characterized by sudden and stabbing blows with the fins and violent bites. The agitation of the fins emits waves in the direction of the adversary's head, where there are important sensory organs.

Certain species hold on to their mouths, in order to measure forces and test the oxygen reserve, making it difficult for their opponent to breathe. If one of them is smaller or weaker, it will retract its fins, turn pale and go into hiding. If the aquarium is not suitable, or rather, large and with innumerable hiding places, the dominated may be killed by the constant attacks of the dominator.
The complexity of the behavior of the pairs is one of the most attractive characteristics for the aquarist, the fact that the female plays an important role in the care of the offspring, either together with the male or as a solitary guard.
There are differences in various groups: while spawners in predetermined locations generally stay together for a long time, mouthbrooders generally disperse.

2.- CHARACTERISTICS:

Cichlids possess a great diversity of shapes and unique characteristics, and come in a wide variety of sizes, ranging from 25mm in the case of Neolamprologus multifasciatus to 1m species. long.

Cichlids exhibit a wide diversity of body shapes, ranging from highly compressed laterally (as are angel species, discus, Altolamprologus , etc.) to cylindrical in shape (such as Julidochromis ).

A group of species usually have similar characteristics in size and shape according to their ecosystem and other needs.

All species share a key feature: they have a pair of pharyngeal jaws, which assist the oral jaws in their work. Because of this, they can capture and process a wide variety of foods, this being one of the explanations for their variety of body shapes.

Characteristics that distinguish them from other Labroidei include:3

• A single nostril on each side of the head, instead of two.
• Absence of bony support under the eye socket.
• Lateral line split into two sections (except genera Teleogramma and Gobiocichla ).
• A distinctively shaped otolith.
• The stomach connects to the small intestine on the left side, rather than on the right, as in the other Labroidei .

Cichlids are found from black, acidic and soft waters (such as the Negro River), to hard and alkaline waters (such as Lake Tanganyika), or even in the brackish waters of river mouths.

The vast majority are in tropical and freshwater, but both saltwater and brackishwater species exist, although many of the freshwater species tolerate brackish water for long periods (for example, Cichlasoma urophthalmus ).

They can be found living and breeding in saltwater environments such as river mouths, mangrove belts around barrier islands.

Several species of tilapia ( tilapia , Sarotherodon , and Oreochromis ) are resistant to brackish water, and can disperse along shorelines between some brackish rivers.

These are mainly freshwater fish, mostly from Africa (from Lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, Victoria and Edward) and South America (from the Amazon River).

It is estimated that, between all the described species, added to those that have not yet been discovered, there will be at least 1600 species in Africa alone.

Large numbers are also found in Mesoamerica, from Panama in Central America to the Mexican portion of North America (having the Rio Grande in southern Texas as its northernmost border), with approximately 120 species.

Madagascar has its own cichlid fauna, phylogenetically distant in relation to those of the African continent.

In Asia only 4 species are found in the Jordan Valley in the Middle East, 1 in Iran, and 3 in India and Sri Lanka. There are 3 species found in Cuba and Hispaniola.

In Europe, Australia, Antarctica and North America, north of the Rio Grande, there are no native species of cichlids, although environmental conditions are suitable.

In Japan and northern Australia, cichlids have become established as feral animals.

3.- CLASSIFICATION:

THE GENUS ASTRONOTUS:

Astronotus is a genus with a single species, ocellatus.

A group discovered in Central Brazil, near Manaus, has several ocelli or specks at the base of its dorsal fin.

In most cases, these ocelli do not appear bilaterally symmetrical in the fish, one side may have four ocelli while the other may have five or three.

Another group discovered in the south, in the area of the Paraguay River, does not have an ocellus in the dorsal fin, but it does have an ocellus in the upper part and towards the middle of its caudal pendulum.

Astronotus are excellent eaters and are hunted throughout their range by local people.

The Oscar, as this fish is known, is very popular among aquarists who are lucky enough to have a large aquarium, which is necessary considering that this fish grows to about 350 mm. of length.

They lay eggs easily if they are kept in the right conditions.

Many color varieties have been developed in this group, with bronze, red, brindle, mottled and normal being the most common.

In their natural habitat, Oscars are found in slow-moving rivers and near the shore, where there is thick vegetation as well as a multitude of hanging plants.

Point to note is that they do not intermingle but stay very close to each other in their respective territories.

Except that females are rather plump in appearance, there is no apparent sexual difference.

THE GENUS AEQUIDENS:

This is a large genus that is widely distributed throughout tropical America, from Panama to Argentina passing through Guiana.

These fish are small in size, most with a length of less than 100 mm. and they are basically very shy, not accustomed to attacking any other fish unless it is small enough to gobble it up in one go.

They are multicolored, for some reason, they have not developed in many varieties of hue, as has happened with the members of the genus Pterophyllum, Symphysodon and Astronotus.

One of the many species, Aequidens portalegrensis , is among the first specimens of tropical fish installed in aquariums, which is evidenced by its presence in old books on aquarium hobby,

The fish of this genus should be installed in an aquarium that is as large as possible since, after spawning, they develop a territorial sense.

To this end we have that a 40 liter aquarium is suitable for a single couple.

As far as spawning is concerned, we will point out that they generally choose a rock with a smooth surface, clean it thoroughly with their mouth and then lay their eggs on it.

Sometimes the spawning takes place on the foliage of plants, twigs and even the glass of the aquarium.

The pair usually guard the eggs, but sometimes it is only the male who bears this responsibility.

Generally, they lay between 100 and 400 eggs and their incubation period is about four days, a circumstance that depends on the temperature of the water.

The eggs can be easily incubated artificially, but in most cases they trust the parents for this, especially if they are well fed and are not disturbed.

These fish lay eggs throughout the year in the aquarium.

Feeding Aequidens is no problem at all as they eat everything from frozen or chilled items to live items, as well as some preparations such as beef heart.

They develop best at temperatures between 23º and 28º C and submerged in slightly acidic water, from pH 6.4 to 7.0.

THE GENUS APISTOGRAMMA:

This is a large genus made up of small-sized cichlids, whose location is somewhat restricted.

Because the genus is so large, with perhaps 65 species described so far, some scientists have begun to subdivide it into smaller groups based on minute differences.

These little cichlids, called "dwarfs" by aquarists, are extremely popular.

They generally lay eggs in the same way as their larger siblings, with the exception that many of them prefer to do so in a "secret" place rather than in an open space.

They lay their eggs on a solid base, be it a rock or a plant.

As for the sexual differences, they generally appear very prominent, the male being much more intensely colored and, in general, with more pointed dorsal and anal fins, as well as with the first spines of the dorsal fin extended.

The eggs of many of these species are ovoid in shape, especially those that have been laid on the sides of various objects rather than on top of them.

Most eggs are tan in color but some are white or light in color.

Their incubation occurs in a space of two to five days, depending on the species and the temperature of the water.

Where they develop best is in water between 22º and 28º C and with a pH of 6.2 to 7.0, they do not like excessive aeration or noise in their tanks.

Many dwarf cichlids are very short-lived and never achieve beautiful colors because their tank is connected to a noisy pump or filter, or because they are kept in an aquarium where they must live with other cichlids. very aggressive fish.

They eat everything but to keep them in good physical condition we must offer them live food, especially small crustaceans, such as salt shrimp and Daphia. They also appreciate being given the time to find a worm.

THE GENUS CICHLASOMA:

This large genus is found from Texas to Argentina, and its members are found in small, still-water streams as well as natural springs.

Some of them are found in brackish water.

Including the subgenera, there are at least 100 different fish in this group, and perhaps quite a few more, depending on how much we consider the subspecies.

All of these are very interesting aquarium specimens, even if some are too large.

Generally, their dimension ranges between 100 and 300 mm, but they are social and interesting fish that do well in large tanks.

Because they uproot the plants and dig up rocky bottoms, it is common to install them in tanks without plants but with rocks, driftwood and perhaps some plastic plants or gadgets that are shaped like caves or hiding places.

Their clutches are abundant and they enjoy good protection by the amcho.

Spawning generally takes place in an open space on the top and flat part of a rock and, if there are plants near the chosen site, the male tears them up, as he needs a lot of space around that site to protect his fry and their eggs.

After incubation, these fingerlings are generally transferred to previously dug holes in the sand.

The fish of the genus Cichalasoma , with some exceptions, are very easy to identify in relation to sex, since the males have a much longer and more pointed framework of spines on their anal and dorsal fins, and they also have a vivid coloration, especially during feeding. put.

These fish are very resistant and can withstand water temperatures of 21º to 30º C with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 with hardly any difficulty.

They still do better with a little salt added to their tank water to make it harder, but this is not recommended for the beginner.

A single couple must be able to count on a lot of space in the tank, with a minimum of 10 liters for every 3 cm. in length of both (a couple of 21 cm. must have a 70-liter tank).

All tanks should be covered, this being especially true of tanks containing jumping cichlids.

THE CRENICARINI SPECIES:

The Crenicarini species integrates three genera of interest to aquarists: Crenicara, Batrachops and Crenicichla.

Fish of the genus Crenicichla are called "pica cichlids" because of their long, slender appearance.

They attack and eat other fish, and in their natural habitat, they move in groups of a few dozen to attack schools of characins that are in the same sector.

They are very fast fish in free waters, they are found in small streams with clear and fast waters.

They are very difficult to catch with a seine as they slip under, jump over or uncover small holes through which they can escape with their slippery body.

It is not easy to install them successfully in an aquarium, since they require a lot of space and considerable amounts of live fish for their food.

Very few have ever laid eggs in an aquarium, but as home tanks get larger and larger, higher numbers of clutches will soon follow.

Batrachops species more or less fit the description of pica cichlids, but are more rounded in appearance and have a deeper body.

They are slippery and very difficult to catch alive except by hook, which makes them very rare.

These fish, Batrachops and Crenicichla , frequently reach a length of 300 mm.

The smaller specimens are often installed in aquariums but rarely reach maturity because they begin to devour their companions.

Crenicara species are the complete opposite of their allies Batrachops and Crenichla . They are small, peaceful and relatively easy to breed, feeding on a normal aquarium diet.

They are considered as belonging to the group of dwarf cichlids since they have all the characteristics of the Apistogramma .

They rarely exceed a length of 125 mm.

THE GEOPHAGUS OR TERRIFAGOS:

These fish multiply like very few other fish in the world.

They lay their eggs, like a typical cichlid, on a flat rock that they have previously cleaned.

The couple then cover the rock with sand and keep it buried for two days.

They then transfer the eggs to their mouths until hatching and the fry continue to seek shelter in their mother's mouth, which takes care of them for three weeks, only spitting them out during this time when they need to feed.

In the aquarium, these fish continually dig at the bottom, chewing the sand and extracting everything they need for their food from it.

They are found throughout South America and are especially abundant in Río Negro (Brazil).

Other species of Geophagus present different habitats. Some have been said to lay eggs like a Cichlasoma, without ever keeping the eggs in their mouths, while other species do not do so as soon as laying has taken place.

These earthworms extend over a wide area, from Panama to Argentina, and there are many species of them, most of which are unknown to aquarists.

With so many species available, this is not a recommended genus for the average aquarist.

Where they perform best is in acidic waters with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8 and a temperature of 24º to 28º C,

They are fed a normal aquarium diet.

THE UARU GENRE:

One or two species exist within the Uaru group, although there are three different color varieties.

The young fish also have different aspects, this fish is calm, shy and very rare.

To be able to raise it and make it develop, the knowledge of an expert is required.

They need the diet that the Symphysodom , heart of vasa and white worms in quantity.

THE ANGEL FISH, PTEROPHYLLUM:

Those who have cultivated the aquarium hobby for more than 50 years, can remember how difficult it was to successfully lay and breed South American angelfish of the genus Pterophyllum .

In the 30s and 40s of the 20th century, it was rare for the aquarist to get the spawn of these fish, and even today nobody gets it on a regular basis if they are specimens imported directly from South America. The only successful breeding is currently achieved with pairs that have placed preciously in the aquarium.

How many species of angelfish are there?

Basically, all fish in a group that look the same and show certain physical characteristics in common belong to the same species, allowing for normal variation and cases of sexual dimorphism in which males and females look different.

The groups of these similar populations include the various species, of which those closely related to each other belong to the same genus.

Most ichthyologists consider that there are only two valid species, plus one subspecies, in the genus Pterophyllum. These are the Pterophyllum dumerilii, the Pterophyllum scalare (common angel) and the Pterophyllum scalare altum , currently imported on certain occasions.

How many varieties of angelfish are there?

There are two general groups of varieties, one of which comprises those with different fin shapes.

In this regard we must point out that there are varieties of normal fin and another of long fin.

Then there are the colored ones, it should be noted that there are many more of these than the finned ones.

Apart from this it is also worth emphasizing that we can expect many varieties of color in angelfish that we currently have, but such varieties will be limited by the genetic material already available in the genes and chromosomes of the original wild angels from which they are all descended. those that make up our current breeding stock.

The angels are black and silver in color and all the varieties obtained so far derive from both colors, or lack color, which gives rise to albinos or lutinos (albinos with a yellow body and black eyes) or are silver in color. totality with little black coloration.

THE DISCO: THE KING OF THE AQUARIUM FISHES.

A cichlid that is the most respected and desired of all aquarium fish, the discus, Symphysodon , has been treated with almost reverence since it first came to the attention of aquarists in the early 1930s.

Even after more than 50 years of being the object of hobbyists, it is still an expensive fish and its breeding is considered the pinnacle of success in aquarium hobby.

Both discus species, the common one being Symphysodon aequifasciata, and the Heckel or red discus being a Symphysodon discus , are virtually restricted to the Amazon River and its main tributaries.

They can be found in all kinds of waters, from the very acidic ones of the Rio Negro to the muddy, whitish ones of some of the main tributaries, as well as in streams that flow into lakes, few discus are caught in the Amazon itself, except for what concerns to points near the birth.

Their rounded bodies are associated with their habit of preferably staying in sheltered spots with abundant vegetation or a large number of exposed tree roots, as they allow them to easily slide between plants. They are very shy and are active mainly at night, facts that do not contribute to facilitating their inclusion in an aquarium.

The two discus species are divided into a total of five subspecies that are useful in at least a general sense when discussing within-species variants.

Symphysodon aequifasciata , distinguished by nine equally dark stripes on its body, has three recognized subspecies:

• Symphysodon aequifasciata haraldi: the blue disk of the lower Amazon.
• Symphysodon discus : presenting only three well-defined dark stripes on the body, it has two recognized subspecies:
  • Symphysodon discus discus: the Heckel or red disc, whose existence in modern times can only be found in the Río Negro and Río Trombetas, north of the Amazon.
  • Symphysodon discus willischwartzi: the pineapple disc, which is only known to exist in the Abacaxis River, the Portuguese name for the pineapple south of the Amazon.

There are many local color variants, in addition to a large number of stable hues achieved in the aquarium, some of which are likely the result of hybridization of natural species and subspecies. It is virtually impossible to attribute a meaningful scientific name to specimens collected from the aquarium, for which reason it is perhaps more accurate to give them only the discus name, Symphysodon .

LAKE MALAWI CICHLIDS:

The so-called Rift Valley in Africa has a certain number of lakes that have achieved importance among aquarists as sources of supply for fish of the Cichlidae family.

Two of these, Lake Malwi and Lake Tanganyika, provide most of the imported species, the former having over 250 well-described species with many more to come.

Like Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi has an unusual chemical composition regarding its water: the pH is strongly alkaline, generally between 7.7 and 8.6, and the water is extremely hard.

In Malawi the cichlid fauna is divided for convenience into the Haplochromis species and the mbuna or rock-dwelling cichlids.

Somewhere between the two groups are such genera as the peacocks, Aulonocara, and Trematocranus. Although most closely related to the Haplochromis species, they are found among the rocks and have been given the honorary status of mbuna by aquarists.

Most of the members of the Haplochromis species are fish with great swimming capacity that have an elongated body in the case of males and that adopt a blue coloration when the spawning season arrives.

Haplochromismoorii is perhaps the most desirable species and a real challenge for aquarists. Malawi boasts over 100 species of Haplochromis, with many more awaiting discovery and description. Such fish dazzle the aquarist with shades of blue alongside purple and green.

Several species of mbuna have developed brilliant color combinations and of these, perhaps the best known is the earliest imported zebra, Pseudotropheus zebra . Not far behind in beauty are Pseudotropheus tropheops and the two species of Labeotropheus . New varieties and species of mbuna are constantly imported but few have surpassed these original species among the hobby.

Lake Malawi cichlids are mostly easy to keep, hardy and good layers. They need a very alkaline pH water, plenty of space and a large number of cavities in the rock (especially as regards mbuna). They should receive some plant in their diet, since they feed especially on algae in the wild, but they will eat almost any type of prepared aquarium food.

Most of the Lake Malawi cichlids are mouthbrooders. The female takes the fertilized eggs into her mouth and incubates them in her oral cavity, not only until the fry hatch, but until they are developed enough to swim.

CICHLIDS FROM LAKE TANGANYICA.

Like Malawi, Tanganyika is one of Africa's Rift Valley lakes. Also, like Lake Malawi, it is a source of supply for numerous species of cichlids for the aquarium hobby, with more than 175 species identified so far and many more that are not yet.

The water in Lake Tanganyika is especially hard and alkaline, with a pH ranging between 8.6 and 9.2.

Although many of the species can be found among the rocks, there are also many others that prefer to swim freely in open water. Most species will accept prepared aquarium foods as well as live foods.

In Lake Tanganyika is the largest cichlid, the Boulengerochromis microlepis , which reaches up to 90 cm. in length or more.

Lake Tanganyika also provides some of the smallest cichlids, species that do not grow larger than 3.5 cm. and live in snail shells.

These shell dwellers have become very popular with the hobby and are all the rage.

Also in Lake Tanganyika you can find small cichlids that act in a very similar way to sea gobys and that, for this reason, have received the name of goby cichlids.

They are members of the genus Spathodus, eretmodus and Tanganicodus. The most numerous genus in the lake is Lamprologus , whose more than 40 species provide a good number of the fish preferred by aquarists, including L. bicherdi, L. conpressiceps, L. sexfasciatus and shell dwellers.

One genus, Julidochromis, includes only half a dozen species but all of these have been imported and become popular with hobbyists.

One of the real challenges of Lake Tanganyika is the Cyphotilapia frontosa, a spectacular fish that is very expensive and for which, even when it has been bred occasionally, there is more demand than can be met. Perhaps the most favored species from Lake Tanganyika is the Tropheus moorii cichlid, which, along with its allies, has developed a myriad of color varieties that are being imported as rapidly as they are being discovered.

Unlike the abundance of mouthbrooders in Lake Malawi. most cichlids imported from Lake Tanganyika are substrate layers.

These fish, especially the Lamprologus, lay in the typical way of most cichlids, after the nuptial parade and the cleaning of a point in the substrate, the female lays a string of eggs and the male follows behind, fertilizing them. .

Once the female has completely emptied, she or the male, or both at the same time, will mount a guard next to the eggs until the fry hatch and they can swim without difficulty.

AFRICAN CICHLIDS FROM NON-LACUSTRE WATERS:

While the current emphasis in the aquarium hobby is on the cichlids of Lakes Malwi and Lake Tanganyika, there are many other African cichlids that make a brilliant and successful addition to the aquarium.

Some of these, such as kribs and jewels, have been popular for years, while others are only now beginning to appear on the market regularly.

Unlike lake cichlids, these species generally require less infrequent water conditions, doing well in near neutral pH and normal hardness water. Generally, they do not oppose any objection to prepared foods complemented with some salted shrimp and tubifex.

Kribs , Pelvicachromis species, are perhaps the best known of the small West African cichlids, with P. pulcher being easy to find, year-round, at Glu Glu Pet.

Other species, such as P. taeniatus, are now imported and bred regularly and, to the aquarist's delight, will do just fine in a small tank.

Even though an intense color is interesting at all times, females at laying time are especially attractive, acquiring a bright pinkish violet tone on their abdomen.

The bright red colors of jewel cichlids, Hemichromis bimaculatus , and allies, have made this fish a popular cichlid for a long time. It should be noted that these cichlids can be very aggressive when they lay, but their heat does not reach that of their larger and less colorful relative, Hemichromis elongatus . This species has earned a reputation for being one of the most aggressive of the small common cichlids.

Offering a variety of colors and shapes we have the Nanochromis species. They can be thick and strong fish such as N. Dimidiatus , or slimmer and more delicate looking species such as N. parilius or splendens .

The male is generally more colorful than the female in this genus, but the recently introduced N. transvestitus has strongly colored females and rather gray males.

Most cichlids from West and Central Africa are substrate layers but Egyptian Pseudocrenilabrus are mouthbrooders. These colorful little fish are well worth acquiring when they can be found.

THE ANABANTIDS:

A large group of fish found in Southeast Asia, including the Philippines, and throughout most of the southern African desert, require atmospheric air in order to breathe.

Not all fish in this group need atmospheric air, and not all fish that feel this need are anabatid, such as the Corydoras cats of South America.

What distinguishes the Anabantidae from other fish is the labyrinthine chamber, a special organ made up of plates that are covered with a thin epidermal layer soaked in blood that allows the fish to use atmospheric air.

These lamellae, Laellae, are a series of thin plates that look a lot like the bottom of a mushroom and were copied by engineers to cool and disperse heat like the fins on a car radiator.

It appears that through the process of evolution, certain fish had to live in waters that contained so much decaying matter, or such an abundance of algae, that the oxygen available in those waters was below the level required by the fish.

All anabantids must have access to atmospheric air or else they die.

Even though the possession of a labyrinthine organ constitutes one of the main elements for the scientific classification of the various fish families in the Anabantidae suborder, those in our aquarium also have other common characteristics.

The families of the suborder are the Anabantides, which include the climbing perch, Anabas , and the Ctenopoma species; the Belontídeos , which includes bettas, paradise fish and croaking gouramis , the Osphronemídeos, which includes only one species, the "real" gourami , the Helostomídeos , which also includes only one species, the kissing gourami .

This list follows a scheme used by Karel F Liem in the early 1960s, different approaches being taken by different taxonists from time to time.

The vast majority of those from Asia build a bubble nest in order to keep all the eggs together.

Said bubble nest is generally built by the male, which after he has completed, attracts a female under it for laying.

Some nests are somewhat complex and large ( Betta, Colisa, Trichogaster ) while others are barely recognizable ( Helostoma ). Some nests are built underwater by some of the smaller anabantids.

The male forms bubbles with the help of a mucous secretion from his mouth, and once he has attracted a female and she has laid with the help of the male, his body is pressed against hers until a very firm "U" is formed, the The female appears to freeze for a few seconds, giving the male time to collect the eggs, or in the case of species that lay floating eggs, allow the eggs to self-introduce themselves into the nest.

4.- NUTRITION:

For the nutrition of these, it will be taken into account where they live, since there are omnivorous and herbivorous cichlids. They can usually feed on algae or small fish, among others. They must have a good diet or else they will develop nutritional problems.

The aquarist will rarely have problems feeding them, unless they are stressed or attacked by some disease.
Most species are satisfied with industrialized feeds, but feeding live feeds is preferable, particularly if the goal is to reproduce. The latter do not outperform good quality foods with respect to nutritional value, but they are more palatable to the cichlids, who end up eating a larger quantity, accumulating the metabolic reserves essential for the maturation of the gonads. Many need fresh vegetables, in order to keep their colors alive. Curiously, some will develop an absolutely original feeding strategy: when there is a shortage of food, they procreate in order to devour their own children (paedophagy).

It is very important to feed your cichlids well and meet the particular needs of each group of fish that are going to be kept in captivity.

It depends on it that they show off their best colors, that their life is long and healthy and also that they reproduce successfully.

Cichlids are divided into four groups regarding their diet:

• omnivores.
• Micropredators.
• Piscivores.
• herbivores.

All captive cichlids tend to be gluttonous.

In nature, they depend on very poorly digestible foods, such as algae or organic detritus.

These foods are abundant in their natural habitat but have little food value per gram, forcing the fish to eat continuously to meet its metabolic needs.

At the other extreme, large predators hunt relatively rare but highly nutritious prey.

In their natural state, they rarely have the opportunity to be satiated, so these fish will overfeed whenever they get a chance.

In the aquarium you do not need to feed them excessively. Depending on the needs of each species, you should only offer them the amount of food that they can finish in two minutes and there is no rest.

Feeding your fish too much high-protein, low-fiber food can be fatal to their health, and it will also make it easier to control the aquarium's nitrogen cycle.

Today it is distinguished by a wide variety of high-quality prepared and frozen foods.

With these foods it is perfectly possible that the fish in captivity are in better conditions than those that fight for survival in the wild.

And if the quality of the water is maintained, many, if not all, fish will live longer in the aquarium than in their natural habitat.

In the aquarium, cichlids are safe from droughts and floods and have more than enough food on a daily basis.

In a wild environment, they do not have constant food.

Due to seasonal or circumstantial causes, food can be abundant for a few days and scarce for weeks.

We must reproduce this natural irregularity in the aquarium and not feed our fish one day a week.

In most cases, aquarium fish are overfed, so one day a week without eating helps to maintain the system.

If you have fish in spawning or spawning season it is the act of shedding eggs and sperm by fish and amphibians in their environment. It is also the cloud of eggs that results from the previous one. Most aquatic animals, which are not aquatic mammals, reproduce through the spawning process), do not interrupt the feeding routine.

The parents eat the food and expel the excess into the water through the gills, this is a very important source of food for the young.

In their natural habitat, most cichlids eat plant debris, young fish, crustaceans, insect larvae, and earthworms and terrestrial insects.

In the aquarium they will accept food prepared in the form of flakes, balls or bars without any problem as the basis of their diet, but once a week, and to complete their diet, it is highly recommended to provide them with fresh food such as Artemia , mysis shrimp, dahnias, larva red , earthworms and tubifex.

Variety is the key to success. Even herbivorous cichlids need a regular supply of animal protein.

Try to avoid using the powdered remains of flake or granulated food when the pot is almost empty, the fish reject these small particles, which contaminate the system.

If possible, buy the varieties of flakes or granules with a large granulometry to avoid this problem.

5.- PLAYBACK:

If there is one thing we should emphasize, it is that this species is dedicated to caring for its offspring and defends its eggs with all its might. If we talk about the laying places, there is a lot of diversity such as the holes they make themselves, stones, even in their own mouth, since these species practice mouth incubation in order to keep their eggs protected.

Cichlids breed not only in aquariums, as they often do, but in conditions different from those existing in their habitat.
Representatives of the primary division have their reproductive activities marked by the seasons of the year and depend on highly specific stimuli from the environment for their gonads to reach maturity.
On the other hand, Cichlids exhibit opportunistic behavior.
As long as the food reserve is sufficient to allow the ovules to mature, they will be suitable for reproduction. On the other hand, a factor that could inhibit or frighten the formation of the casal is the inadequate temperature.
Due to the fact that many species are extremely territorial and large in size, the chosen aquariums should be large, provided with large and small stones, trunks and strong, well-rooted plants, so that they can conveniently delimit their territories. . However, the vegetation should not hinder the vision of the fish in the protection of these territories, otherwise they will not hesitate to uproot or destroy them.

Gymnogeophagus sp. (Missions, Argentina)
Being basically bottom oriented fish, they will spend little time in the upper parts of aquariums. They dig caves or hiding places to spawn under stones and logs, trying to stay as far away from their neighbors as possible. When there is overcrowding, they use every possible hiding place imaginable. Some species are permanently hidden, this being an abnormal attitude to be observed to preserve their psycho-physiological balance.

How to Breed Malawi Cichlids

Malawi cichlids, also sometimes called African cichlids, are various types of colorful fish that originally come from Lake Malawi in Africa.[1] Many people keep a large community of these beautiful fish in home tanks. If you have Malawi cichlids and you want to breed them, it is important to give them a good environment in which to spawn. Optimizing your tank, preparing your fish to breed, and thinking about other basics can help ensure effective cichlid breeding.

• Optimize the tank for breeding: Make sure the tank is big enough. Cichlids need a tank that is at least three feet long for them to breed. This detail can ensure that the cichlids have enough space to breed comfortably and to hide, if necessary.
  • Keep in mind that most people keep multiple cichlids in a tank, so the larger the tank, the more optimal the environment for breeding.
• Aim for high quality water: Good quality water is important to keep Malawi cichlids healthy and happy. Making sure the water quality is appropriate for your fish can also give them the best breeding environment.
  • Test the water – with fish tank water tests , which you can purchase at Glu Glu Pet. These tests can identify water quality problems (for example, if the water is too acidic). Malawi cichlids like alkaline water (pH 8 or higher). If the water is not alkaline enough, you can use a carbonate, calcium or magnesium buffer to raise the levels and to increase the density of the water.
  • Make sure the water temperature is 80 °F (27 °C). You may also need to check that the oxygen saturation in the tank exceeds 70%.
• Filter the water : Cichlids can leave a lot of debris in the water. Filtering the water is essential to maintaining water quality, which will also optimize breeding. It can also help the spawn survive.
  • Choose a soft or drip filter for fresh water, which is good for large tanks with cichlids. Make sure to replace or clean the filter once a month or as often as needed.
• Provide hiding places. Most Malawi cichlid tanks do well with a layer of sand on the bottom. However, these fish also like hiding places , especially during breeding. This will give the cichlids room to breed and the fry (or baby fish) a place to hide from adults trying to eat them.
  • Place some flat stones together at the bottom of the tank to be breeding sites. You can also glue small stones with aquarium silicone to make a "cave" in which the fish can reproduce and the fry hide.
  • Place a few small clay pots in the tank as hiding places. You can make them look more natural (and pretty) in the tank by using aquarium silicone to glue small stones to them.
• Prepare cichlids for breeding: Make sure you have males and females of each species. There are several species of Malawi cichlids and you may have a tank mix. Make sure you have males and females of both species in the tank. This measure can prevent you from having hybrids, which may not have the same beautiful color as the parents and, in addition, may be sterile. It can also ensure that males and females have partners to reproduce with in the event that a specific pairing doesn't work out.
  • Keep in mind that most cichlid species are dimorphic, meaning males and females have different color patterns. If you have dimorphic fish but aren't sure, you can review a guide to find an image of specific colors.
  • Recognize that you may have trouble discerning subtle color differences in dimorphic cichlids or those that may be monomorphic. If this is the case, you'll need to "air them out," which means checking the genital papilla. You can find it by pulling the fish out of the water to look for its anal pore. Below this is the genital papilla. The female's is usually larger than the male's.
• Give the cichlids an appropriate amount of food: The health and vitality of the cichlids is important for reproduction. Make sure you feed them, but not excessively. This way you can optimize breeding and ensure that the eggs and spawn survive.
  • Be sure to feed your cichlids according to the specific needs of the species, which can be anything from small shrimp to algae in the tank. In most cases, specialized cichlid food is enough to keep them healthy. Consider buying something that contains spirulina flakes, which are high in protein and other nutrients that Malawi cichlids need.
  • Just give the fish as much food as it can consume in 20-30 seconds. Do this by spreading the food 3-4 times a day, which can ensure that each fish has enough to eat and prevent aggression. Avoid overfeeding cichlids, as this can lead to "bloating," which is often fatal.
• Treat health problems: Unhealthy fish are not good for reproduction. If any of the Malawi cichlids show signs of any illness, you'll need to treat them before they breed. If you don't know the cause, use a commercial fish medicine. This can relieve the fish of any diseases or parasites, and help it reproduce.
  • Recognize the typical symptoms of fish disease (such as white or velvety spots on the body, lack of scales, incomplete or ragged fins, bulging or cloudy eyes, ulcers or lesions, chills, and rapid breathing). You may also see behavioral signs of a disease (such as scratching against the tank, swimming erratically, listlessness, panting at the surface, or sulking in a corner).
  • Talk to the manager at Glu Glu Pet about commercial fish medications if you don't know what to buy.
• Check if the fish are ready to breed: Although there is no definitive way to know if the cichlids are ready to breed, there are some signs in the females and males. Observing them for signs can help you know if the fish are getting ready to breed. This can also let you know when to take out the males that can eat the fry.
  • See if males make burrows, which are actually nests, in the sand and near hiding places.
  • Look at the shape of the female to see if she is a little thicker than normal. If so, this may be a sign that she is ready to lay eggs in the nest the male has dug.
• Detect attraction in cichlids: As well as exhibiting some signs of being ready to breed, Malawi cichlids also have specific behaviors they engage in when trying to attract a mate. Looking for signs of attraction can help you keep an eye out for eggs and fry, and know when to remove the males so they don't eat the babies.
  • See if the male fish starts to move towards the female and push his tail through. If he does, the female may follow him to his designated spot. This starts the playback process. If the female isn't ready, she may not follow the male, causing him to look for another female.
• Let nature take its course or give it a little push: Many people looking to breed cichlids have trouble with the process, while others can't keep the fish away from each other. If you have multiple males and females of each species, and you have a natural, healthy environment, your cichlids may only need a little time before they start reproducing.
  • Keep in mind that cichlids are animals and will naturally mate when they are ready. Cichlids can take a while to get used to the tank or tank mates.
  • Make sure the tank is very clean and as natural as possible. If you haven't already, adding some sand, clean water, or some natural stones as hiding places can stimulate the desire to breed. You'll also want to make sure you don't move any hiding spots or caves, as these give the cichlids a sense of permanence and security. This measure can also help them relax and find a partner.
  • Check eating patterns. Overfed fish do not usually reproduce. Is there food leftovers in the tank? If so, consider cutting back on one meal a day and the length of time you feed the fish. For example, reduce the meals you give them 3 times a day to 20 seconds to see if this helps. You can even cut back to one quality meal a day if you need to. Use high-quality foods and increase protein foods, such as spirulina.
• Observe the reproduction: If a female follows the male to his nest, then they will start the reproduction process. You can easily tell if the pair are circling each other, head to tail.
  • Note that male and female Malawi cichlids may stop every half circle so that the female can collect the fertilized eggs in her mouth and the male can fertilize the laid eggs. After the pair has mated, the female will have her mouth full of eggs. Your throat will be distended and your face will look square.
• Caring for the female and fry after breeding: Let the female rest. Once the cichlids have spawned, the female will need some rest for the eggs to develop in her mouth. Five days without you bothering her will be enough time for her to rest. Keep in mind that he may not eat during this period.
  • Consider compartmentalizing the tank so the female can have her own space. This is especially necessary if you decide not to remove the male from the tank. Similarly, you can also put the female in a separate tank. Remember that you should try not to disturb her because she may spit out the eggs or even swallow them.
• Pay attention to when the female releases the fry. A female Malawi cichlid will hold the fertilized eggs in her mouth for approximately 21 days. After that time, it will begin to release the fry or baby fish from its mouth into the hiding places or the tank. Keep in mind that the female may take a couple of days to release the fry into the water.
  • Recognize that Malawi cichlids have relatively small numbers of eggs (only 10-30). You may see between 10 and 30 fry, depending on their survival rate.
  • Make sure there are hiding places in the tank where the fry can hide from the males. Don't be surprised if the female pops the fry into her mouth multiple times. The females will eventually abandon the fry, so it is important that the young fish have hiding places.
• Feed the fry: The fry will need nutritious food to grow into healthy Malawi cichlids. There are several nutritious foods that you can give them. You can also tell if they are eating enough by looking at their bodies with a magnifying glass. You can feed the fry in order to promote their growth with the following foods:
  • brine shrimp.
  • water fleas
  • microworms.
  • grinding worms.
  • The fry are large and highly developed, so the infusorium is insufficient for them.

Warnings:

• Avoid giving them beef heart or high-fat foods. These can cause liver damage in cichlids. Sewage worms and bloodworms can cause a fatal strain.
• Avoid "separating" or manually removing the fry from the female. This can lead to high mortality rates as the fry are too weak.

6.- CARE:

It should be taken into account that it is important to place these species in specious fish tanks, logs and stones are essential for this species to establish its land. The ideal water temperature must be clear and a good filtering system must be in place because this species greatly deteriorates the water.

As we well know, fish cannot control their body temperature, this depends on the water conditions in the aquarium they live in or the environment they are in, and that is of the utmost importance for their maintenance.

Any increase or decrease in the appropriate temperature in the habitat of this species will affect its immune system and make it sick. It is recommended to maintain a temperature range of 22 °C to 25 °C that will be suitable for maintaining it.

Despite the fact that this type of tropical fish is common in the aquariums of aquarium lovers, little is known about exactly what African cichlids are like. An aquatic family that shares certain characteristics, and that has an enormous variety of appearances, shapes and colors and even has "cousins" of the same species on several continents (such as America and even Asia).

And while it is true that they share the vast majority of their care despite the particularities of each one, there is one aspect that is common to all of them: their incredible beauty. An aesthetic factor that falls in love with those who start in the aquarium hobby and that, far from the urban legend that says they are difficult to care for, makes them an object of desire for those who have minimal knowledge about the aquatic world.

Beware of this overpopulation: it is important to bear in mind that the greater the number of fish, the greater the amount of waste. A factor that can destabilize the pH of the aquarium (African cichlids usually need alkaline waters) and put our entire fish community at risk. In order not to overdo it, there is nothing like following a basic rule: one fish for every liter of water.

And if water is, logically in the case of an aquarium, fundamental in any captive ecosystem, it is even more so if we have African cichlids. Your specific pH needs will force us to have a filtration system that is up to the task. Moreover, to cure ourselves in health, and avoid any mishap, the ideal is to increase the recommended filtration without creating (be careful with this) strong currents of water.

Despite having these refuges, some fish of this immense aquatic family will not settle but will also dig into the aquarium substrate, hiding in it. For this reason, it is important to choose the aquarium gravel correctly, opting for a medium-grained one without dyes. The reason not to choose one, neither too thin nor too thick, is that these extremes have repercussions on the balance of the aquarium: in the first case, it will make it easier for the water to rot; in the second, that of coarse gravel, it will collaborate in spoiling the water (the accumulation of debris will be greater and, when the cichlids excavate it, it will contaminate the aquarium water).

From everything we have just seen, an important implication emerges to take care of these African fish: in order to enjoy them, we will need to have a good-sized aquarium. In this way, we will avoid any territorial conflict while maintaining a balance in all aspects.

Finally and despite everything: let's not be afraid to include these fish in our aquarium. Knowing what their personality is like will help us to know what their needs are and to be able to abandon ourselves to what is important.

7.- HEALTH:

The most common diseases and their treatment, like any other living being, these fish also get sick.

It will be inevitable that throughout their lives they may suffer from some ailment, and it is in our hands to avoid it, but with prevention and then with correct treatment.

The best method is always prevention by carrying out a methodical and periodic control of the water conditions.

Take time to observe your aquarium, carefully observe all the fish and their behavior.

Check that: skin, scales and fins are healthy.

If there are constant fights between some of the fish, look for a solution, they may be incompatible and you should not keep them together in the same tank.

Remember to always have products on hand to treat the white spot, a bactericide and a fungicide.

Be careful when introducing new specimens, especially if they are wild and come from lakes.

If a fish gets sick and you have to treat it, the main thing is that you have patience. Always follow the instructions for the correct supply of the product and do not suspend a treatment if you see that the improvement does not come in a couple of days, do not replace it or modify the dose, the mixture of products can be deadly for a fish with low defenses .

Some treatments can negatively affect other elements of the aquarium such as plants or bacteria.

Most fish stop producing or reduce the production of antibodies as the water temperature drops.

In tropical fish, this decrease is variable depending on the ideal temperature for each species.

If a fish is in an environment with a lower temperature than it needs, it will stop producing antibodies and its defenses will be reduced, so it can lose its superficial cellular immunity and suffer an attack from bacteria or from any other organism.

Other factors that can trigger an illness can also be excessively low or excessively alkaline paha, unsanitized wounds, such as rubbing against hard surfaces or fighting between fish and poor feeding.

The most common causes are the overpopulation of bacteria inside the aquarium (excess decomposing organic matter) and contagion by introducing infected fish.

More common diseases:

• White Point: The White Point is one of the most common diseases in the tropical aquarium, so knowing it is essential when it comes to preventing contagion and treating symptoms. This disease is caused by a protozoan known as Ichthyophthirius multifilis, which is fatal to fish but is also easy to diagnose and reacts very well to specific medications. It is characterized by the appearance of white dots on fins and scales, it is very contagious and the entire aquarium must be treated at the same time. Fish are familiar with the microorganisms that cause this disease because they are widespread, but only fish that do not have good defenses get sick. This is due to poor nutrition, stress, overcrowding or poor water quality. With the naked eye, small white dots can be seen on the body of the fish, especially on the gills, and the infected specimens are nervous and swim quickly trying to remove the discomfort from their bodies. As the disease progresses, fish become increasingly irritated and may begin to rub against objects, walls, or gravel in the tank to relieve itchiness. Finally, breathing difficulties, lack of appetite and even death can occur. Depending on the temperature of the water, the complete cycle of the protozoan that causes this disease can last from 4 days to several weeks. The warmer the water, the faster the cycle. For the treatment of white spot, you can increase the temperature of the aquarium to around 27º C to speed up the life cycle of the protozoan and also increase the supply of oxygen. The most commonly used medications are formalin and malachite green for about 7 days, although there are others with equal efficacy. Remember to follow the product instructions and don't forget to remove the carbon from the filter and cover the UV filters. To prevent the appearance of the white dot, you must take extreme precautions when introducing new specimens, avoid sudden changes in the temperature of your aquarium, control the pH and ammonia levels.
• Oodinium or velvet skin disease: Oodinium is a genus of microscopic unicellular parasitic dinoflagellates that can form colonies. The onset of this disease usually goes unnoticed, so it is highly recommended to observe any type of change in the behavior of our fish. In its initial phase, the fish is noted to be irritated and swim randomly as it rubs against rocks and other objects to dislodge the parasite, but the disease only becomes visible if the invasion is stronger. Then the fish appears covered by tiny golden spots that seem to be sprinkled on the head, fins and chest, giving it a velvety appearance. These spots are more visible in artificial light or sunlight. Velvet skin disease is highly contagious, so isolation should be done as soon as possible. If the disease progresses, the fish will have difficulty breathing, will gasp, and will rapidly open and close their cappings. They will then become thin and if not treated soon it will be lethal. The first step in treating this infestation is to cover the aquarium and turn off the light to weaken the parasite. It can be treated with copper sulfate, methylene blue or antibiotics such as Chloromycetin. At Glu Glu Pet you will find chemical products for its treatment that give very good results. It will only be necessary to remove the activated carbon so that it does not remove the chemical from the water.
• Costia or Costiasis: Costiasis is a very contagious disease, which spreads in places where there is a large concentration of fish. It is caused by the flagellate Costia necatrix. The parasites fixate on the fish and that is when they reproduce. The body of the fish is covered with a whitish veil that in the advanced stage is associated with hemorrhagic effusions and redness of the affected area. When the disease is in an advanced stage, other symptoms that the fish present are rubbing against the bottom, retracted fins, rocking movement and lack of reaction. The gills are also attacked and congested, so additional symptoms will appear, such as labored breathing and gasping at the surface. Treatment is simple. For tropical fish you should raise the temperature above 30ºC, gradually, without affecting the fish, for a few hours so that the parasites die and make a daily bath of Sodium Chloride (coarse salt) at a rate of 10 grams per liter for 20 minutes, until skin clears, keeping affected fish isolated and under observation. For each treatment you will prepare a new saline solution.
• Saprolegnia, Achyla and other fungi : Although there are more than 35 species of aquatic fungi, the most common cause of diseases in fish are Saprolegnia and Achyla. The onset of a disease caused by these fungi, generally due to an injury, a weakening or destruction of the musosa, etc., manifests itself in the same way as a change in the behavior of the fish. Observation is essential. During the initial process, a spore infiltrates the body of the fish and develops vegetative structures comparable to roots (mycelia) that penetrate the tissues, feed on them and necrotize them. So far the affected area only shows a slight opacity that can go unnoticed, however the affected fish will have changed its behavior. Between 24 and 48 hours later, the fungus will begin to grow outwards and we will be able to observe small white or whitish spots that will later take the form of cottony flakes, in the case of saprolegnia, or long filaments like thin strands of wool, when it is treated. of Achyla. By then the mycelia will have necrotized a vast expanse of tissue, and depending on the location of the fungus, may also have destroyed some vital organ, making recovery of the fish impossible.
• In Glu Glu Pet you can find medicines prepared to combat Fungus : This disease is caused by poor water conditions, so in non-extreme cases it can be cured by changing the water. You can medicate the aquarium water with pure Methylene Blue at a rate of 1 gram per 100 liters of water, accompanying this treatment with 15-minute baths in a solution of 15 grams of coarse salt per liter of water.
• Columnariosis or fungus of the mouth : It is a disease of bacterial origin. The responsible pathogen is currently known as Flavobacterium columnare . This bacterium penetrates the body of the fish and after an incubation period of between 5 and 8 days the first symptoms appear consisting of formations very similar to cottony flakes produced by fungi and which are mainly located in the animal's mouth, although it can affect other areas, such as the head and gills, if it is not treated quickly. These cottony formations will lead to ulcerations. The fins that will present a milky appearance or will degrade will also be affected. The behavior of the fish changes, some settle on the bottom and others gasp on the surface, but in both cases a characteristic zigzag "wobble" is produced. Treatment should be started as soon as possible. You will need to isolate infected fish and treat them separately in a hospital aquarium. Initial treatment consists of cleaning the main tank by siphoning the tank once a week. You must turn off the heater because high temperatures favor infection. It is necessary to carry out water changes of 30% siphoning the substrate on alternate days, and add sea salt in a proportion of 7 gr. per liter of water. This procedure should be carried out once a week, and if they do not react to the treatment, the ideal is to resort to antibiotics such as Terramycin and Oxytetracycline (250 mg./ 10 litres), changing 30% of the treatment water every day. days for 5 days.
• Parasitic worms : Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus . These two parasites, while not microscopic, are also not large enough to confirm the diagnosis without the aid of a magnifying glass, except for those who have had some experience with them. These are the genera Gyrodactylus spp and Dactylogyrus vastator that are part of the helminths or worms. Gyrodactylus is found in the integument of fish and can attack any part of the body, including the eyes. If the disease is not very advanced, the external symptoms are not very visible, so observing the behavior of the fish is essential. When the disease is in the advanced phase, cloudiness is observed in the skin and, in the heavily invaded areas, redness occurs. In the eyes there may be a generalized or partial opacity, depending on the degree of invasion of the parasite. For its treatment, baths with chloramphelicol at a rate of 5 mg./liter are recommended, performing a 50% water change every day for 3 days.